Almost three months ago, on March 28, we published a story about breakfast sandwiches — and new beginnings. I loved writing that, but the best thing to come from it were the breakfast sandwich recommendations people sent through notes. Amazing! I’m grateful to everyone who responded, even though it has taken me a while to get back into the BEC trenches.
First of all, I want to clarify that I didn’t take up any of the bagel-and-lox recommendations—not because I don’t love lox and cream cheese, but because I think it’s an entirely different category of sandwich. So, for this update, I stuck with the egg, cheese, meat, and bread variety of breakfast sandwich. Also, all the sandwiches are from Brooklyn.
Secondly, many thanks to the recommenders: Kenney Marlatt, Steven She, Alex, Laura Itzkowitz, Ben Cohn, Jesse Casey, Waveform Archive, BK and Amanda Schuster. It takes effort for someone to jump into a conversation and participate and I’m grateful to all of you for that.
And finally, thanks for keeping all the sandwiches under $10, because last time the prices of some of the breakfast treats freaked people out.
Now, let’s go!
Win Son Bakery, 164 Graham Avenue.
BEC Egg Sando, with raclette, heritage bacon, ginger deluxe on a milk bun, $9.
This sandwich reminds me of an Ipswich clam, not only in looks, but because it truly is location specific. Only Win Son bakery, a distinctively Taiwanese-American bakery, could have come up with this perfect mix of flavors; a fresh, milk bread roll—crisp, yet soft—filled with moist eggs, raclette cheese, ginger deluxe (which is the house “special sauce”) and crispy thick bacon. All for $9!
Farmer in the Deli, 357 Myrtle Avenue.
BEC on a roll, $4.99
Okay, I love this place. I even love the long line that snakes through the aisles because the people in it are fun. But what I love most is the BAM! BAM! BAM! sound behind the counter every two seconds. That’s the sound of the counter men going to work with their knives when people order the chopped tuna sandwich or the chopped turkey sandwich or some other chopped sandwich. The chopped sandwiches looked so good we are going to go back just for that! But on this occasion, we were there for the BEC. Now, this very New York corner-store example of a bacon, egg and cheese on a roll was good, but it had that weird bacon that was not quite bacon—very flabby. (Was it turkey bacon!? I don’t know.) So it gets points off for that.
Fast and Fresh Burrito Deli, 84 Hoyt Street.
Mexican Torta with chorizo on a Portuguese roll with refried beans and jalapeños, $7.
Wow, this place was a wonder. It doesn’t look like much from the street, but inside it offers a wide variety of Mexican dishes, including many different breakfast tacos, burritos and tortas. The sandwich I chose was comprised of omelette-style eggs, made with chorizo and spices (I could have used a little more chorizo), with layers of peppers and beans on a super crispy roll. It was delicious and took forever to make, but I didn’t mind because—surprise!—they have a lovely backyard, where you can wait while they cook it and eat it when it’s done. Also, brunch lovers, they get extra points for selling beer.
Court Street Bagels, 181 Court Street.
Everything bagel, toasted with sausage, egg and cheese, $8.
The line at Court Street Bagels was really long (as the most popular bagel place in Cobble Hill, it’s always long on weekends), but we waited anyway. Unfortunately they were out of bacon, so I had the sausage, egg and cheese, made with omelette-ish style eggs (though there were spots of egg whites). It was good. Very good. But at this point, I’m recognizing something in myself: the need for something special on the weekend. I want a sandwich that’s going to go the extra mile creatively. The standard BEC just isn’t going to cut it.
Miss Ada by Nila, 360 Smith Street.
Bacon, Egg and Cheese on a Pita, $9.
Robert and I always say, “This is the place where Milk Bar used to be,” when we pass by. This sister restaurant of the popular Miss Ada in Fort Greene is housed in a corner storefront next to the entrance to the F subway line’s Carroll Street stop. Because it doesn’t open until 10 a.m.—not great hours if you’re in the breakfast business!—I had to send Robert to go without me. Here’s his report on the house breakfast sandwich, which stands out in that it’s served in a pita:
The pita is very stuffed. The eggs are scrambled and on the wet side, and fully integrated with the melted cheese. The bacon is thick and on the top of the sandwich. It is a very moist, juicy sandwich. There’s a big difference between the softness of the eggs and the chewiness of the bacon. Very unusual. The cheese on the sandwich is cheddar and they drizzle a date syrup over the bacon. I couldn’t find out where the bacon came from.
Black Seed Bagels at the Ace Hotel, 252 Schermerhorn Street.
BEC on a bagel, $9.95.
This sandwich has bacon—lots of bacon—and cage-free eggs on a wood-fired, toasted bagel. My bagel was poppyseed (the correct choice, right, given the name of the place?) and the sandwich was incredible. The bacon had a deep smoky flavor and was crispy in just the right way and was piled high. I ate half the sandwich and put the other half in my purse for lunch. The scent of bacon perfumed the subway car all the way to work. The sandwich didn’t make it to lunch. I didn’t want to like you, Black Seed Bagel, because you are a chain, but like Compton’s, you were so good. Plus, you’re three blocks from my house.
Where we are with breakfast sandwiches now.
So, it seems I’m pretty obsessed with breakfast sandwiches now. In recent days, I’ve bought a BEC from the food truck near work; and also a place called Mike’s near my office building (these guys are literally a grill tucked away in a niche on 32nd Street). I got one last weekend at Mustache Bill’s, a classic diner in Barnegat Light on Long Beach Island. Robert bought a pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich the same weekend at Neptune Market in Harvey Cedars, also on Long Beach Island.
All ranged from $4.50 to $9.95, which is a steal for a New Yorker. The only sandwich I was truly disappointed with was one where they put ketchup on it without me asking. (I only like the homemade ketchup from As You Are—I also think ketchup goes better with Pork Roll and Taylor Ham than bacon, anyway.)
In closing, I’m glad to have tried all of these sandwiches, and will continue to try them in the future—but am I still thinking about that $17 Speck, Egg and Cheese on a Pogasca at Agi’s on a daily basis? Why yes, yes I am.
P.S.—I am starting work on a new list: Ursula at its new location, and Frankel’s in Greenpoint (sorry I didn’t get there this time). Do you have any recommendations for me? Please leave them here!
What goes better with an egg sandwich than coffee? With that in mind, give this modern classic using coffee liqueur a try tonight at cocktail hour. The recipe comes from my book Modern Classic Cocktails, which this week earned a final four nomination for a Spirited Award as best new cocktail book. The awards ceremony will take place on July 27 in New Orleans.
Revolver
Jon Santer, Bruno’s, San Francisco, 2004
2 ounces Bourbon, preferably Bulleit
1/2 ounce coffee liqueur, preferably Tia Maria
2 dashes orange bitters
Combine the ingredients in a mixing glass half-filled with ice. Stir until chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a flamed orange twist.
These pictures make me hungry. I glad I got to review at least one of these sandwiches!
In Philly for the summer — "The Egg" at Kismet Bagels on Girard in Fishtown is bonkers good — scrambled egg, cooper sharp cheese and zhug on a bagel of your choice — $8