The Frozen Pizza Cradle

How Midwestern Ghosts of Long-Gone American Dreams Haunt Your Supermarket's Frozen Pizza Aisle.

Two frozen pizzas on their way to the table.

Walk down the frozen-food aisle of a Key Food or Foodtown or D’Agostino’s in New York and you’ll find a modest selection of frozen pizzas. They’re typically the usual national brands: DiGiorno, California Pizza Kitchen, Celeste, Newman’s, Red Baron, and, because this is New York, maybe Ellio’s. Altogether, the…