Six months ago, in one of my early posts on The Mix, I published The New York 50, my tally of what I considered Gotham’s fifty iconic, must-try, benchmark cocktails and the bars where they are made and sold. The article was inspired by a periodic piece compiled by the San Francisco-based cocktail writer Camper English.
There aren’t many cities that can support such an assessment. But New Orleans is certainly one of them. For a city half the size of San Francisco, and one-twentieth the size of New York, it has generated and maintained an inordinate number of classic cocktails and drinking experiences. New Orleans is one of the few American cities that never abandoned cocktail culture.
Like many people in the drinks industry, I have missed New Orleans, which is the setting of Tales of the Cocktail, a convention held every summer since 2002 in that convivial city. Covid put the confab on hold for two years, during which Tales functioned largely on virtual terms. I can’t wait to return this week and check in on the many NOLA bars and restaurant I know and love, as well as explore the new places that have opened since 2019, the year of my last visit.
I’ve enjoyed the hospitality of New Orleans’ many bars and restaurants some twenty-odd times since my first visit in 2006, so I feel decently equipped to pinpoint the city’s iconic drinks. But, because I don’t live there on a permanent basis, and haven’t been to all the bars—and because Covid has kept me from visiting the city for three years—I enlisted the counsel and advice of several full-time residents from the NOLA bar world, including Neal Bodenheimer (Cure), Chris Hannah (Jewel of the South), Nick Jarrett (Peychaud’s), Kimberly Patton-Bragg (Palm & Pine) and Elizabeth Pearce (local historian).
Without further ado, here’s the list:
Absinthe Frappe at The Olde Absinthe House
Most people I know drink beer at this landmark, among the most famous bars in the city. But it is called the Olde Absinthe House. And you can get a classic absinthe frappe here. So get one.
A La Louisiane at Peychaud’s Bar
You can no longer get an A La Louisiane cocktail at the restaurant where it was invented, the De La Louisiane restaurant on Bienville Street. So, Peychaud’s Bar, the loving new keeper of all New Orleans cocktail flames, is a good stand-in.
Any Cocktail Made by Paul Gustings at Broussard’s
Gustings, one of New Orleans’ most famous bartenders, is back at Broussard’s. Anything he makes you is going to be good, but I would recommend a Sazerac, Grasshopper or one of his meticulously crafted punches. All drinks come with a side of salty personality.
Arnaud’s Special Cocktail at Arnaud’s
Like many of the great old New Orleans restaurants, Arnaud’s has its own cocktail, and has since the 1940s.
Bloody Mary at Golden Lantern
This Bloody Mary is routinely rated as one of New Orleans’ best.
Brandy Crusta at Jewel of the South
Jewel of the South, a relatively new addition to the French Quarter bar scene, has brought back to relevancy one of the oldest French Quarter drinks, the Brandy Crusta, first created by Joseph Santini at his 1850s bar, which had the same name. You can’t get a better Crust anywhere.
Brandy Milk Punch at Brennan’s
They do a lot of things well here. But this is the creamy, decadent New Orleans classic you’re going to want. It’s best at breakfast or lunch. Yes, you read that right. This is New Orleans after all.
Bywater at Jewel of the South
Bartender Chris Hannah created many original cocktails while running the French 75 Bar, his perch for 14 years. This rum drink is one of the most loved. Many a customer has followed Hannah to Jewel of the South to order it. You should, too.
Cafe Brulot at Antoine’s
The most florid and theatrical of New Orleans drinking experiences. Who doesn’t like a ring of fire on their white tablecloth? “If it's slow you can order just that at Antoine's without having to commit to a meal,” notes Elizabeth Pearce.
Creole Cocktail at Elysian
Yet another rye-based New Orleans invention—like the Vieux Carre and A La Louisiane—that has been brought back to life in recent years.
Drive-Thru Daiquiri
Yes, New Orleans has these. Drinking laws are kinda bendy down here. “Everyone should go through a drive thru daiquiri shop at least once in their lives,” said Pearce. “New Orleans Original Daiquiris (many locations) is the one I grew up going to.”
Flaming Dr. Pepper at The Gold Mine
The Gold Mine is one of two bars that claims to have invented this novelty shot, and it sells a ton of them. The drink is as advertised. It tastes of Dr. Pepper and, most importantly, it’s on fire.
Floridita Daiquiri at Manolito
When you need an icy Daiquiri, piled high El Floridita style, without going to Havana.
French 75 at French 75 Bar
Before Chris Hannah began bartending at the French 75 Bar and started thinking deeply about classic cocktails, nobody in this city really cared much about the old 1920s cocktail, the French 75. Now, they care. How they care. And argue, because Hannah insisted on making the traditional gin cocktail with Cognac. “I’m proud to have made this a classic NOLA drink,” said Hannah.
Frozen Irish Coffee at Erin Rose
Long before the current fad for frozen cocktails, this French Quarter dive bar was selling these chilly numbers hand over fist. They still are. “It’s a must and a perfect ‘get right’ after a long night out,” said Kimberly Patton-Bragg.
Galatoire’s Cocktail at Galatoire’s
Yes, this dining icon has its own cocktail. Yes, it's not quite as famous as some other New Orleans restaurants’ signature cocktails. And, yes, it’s not much different from a Sazerac (bourbon, not rye, and no absinthe). Stop asking questions and order one already.
Grasshopper at Tujague’s
This ancient restaurant is sadly no longer at its original Decatur Street location ; it sits a few blocks away. And the evidence that the Grasshopper was invented here is sketchy at best. But no other bar is more closely associated with the sweet green delight.
Gunshop Fizz at Cure
A bold sally from this pioneering craft cocktail bar’s early days. A play on the Pimm’s Cup, its base is two ounces of the city’s beloved Peychaud’s Bitters. And in case that’s not red enough for you, there’s San Bitter in there, too. Ordering one will cost you. It’s worth it.
Hand Grenade at Tropical Isle
“New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink,” brags this Bourbon Street bar. Now, that’s saying something. This melon-flavored rum drink, dispensed in a green plastic container that looks like the weapon in question, has relieved thousands of Bourbon Street revelers of worry about what do do with their hands.
Holywater at Seaworthy
The owners of Seaworthy liked this rum-Cognac cocktail so much they named their new Manhattan bar after it. It’s that good. “The Holywater is kind of what Seaworthy is known for,” confirmed Neil Bodenheimer.
Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s
It’s big. It’s red. It tastes vaguely of rum and passion fruit. It comes in a Hurricane glass. You’ll probably pony up for the commemorative glass as well. Everyone knows the drill here.
Hurricane & Table at Cane & Table
Every drink at Cane & Table is good, but start with this deconstructed version of the Pat O’Brien’s specialty.
Mint Julep at Revel
“Who has not enjoyed hearing an ode to the Mint Julep by Chris McMillian while watching Julep master whale away at a canvas bag of ice with a huge wooden mallet has lived in vain.” (Apologies to Joshua Soule Smith.)
Neptune’s Monsoon at Port of Call
Does a hamburger joint really need to have a signature cocktail? Foolish question! Again, this is New Orleans after all.
Night Tripper at Jewel of the South
Another Chris Hannah modern classic, named after the city’s dear departed musical legend Dr. John.
Ojen Cocktail at Peychaud’s
Because there has to be an Ojen Cocktail on this list, and Peychaud’s actually makes this once classic, now obscure, New Orleans favorite.
Outcast of the Islands at Latitude 29
Leave it to New Orleans’ own tiki scholar Jeff “Beachbum” Berry to come up with an original gin tiki cocktail that triumphs. That fancy ice feature ain’t bad, either.
Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House
The Impastato family, who owned Napoleon House for a century, started selling Pimm’s Cups back in the 1940s because they didn’t want their patrons to get drunk too fast. We continue to drink them today—by the dozens per hour—because they are delicious.
Possum Drop at Snake and Jake’s
A shot of Jaegermeister in a pint of Schlitz. That’s about as fancy as it gets at this beloved Uptown dive.
Purple Drink at Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
This cocktail’s actual name is The Voodoo Daiquiri, but everyone calls it the Purple Drink. It is indeed purple. It is also strong, made with bourbon and Everclear.
Ramos Gin Fizz at Sazerac Bar
“I actually prefer the Ramos Gin Fizz over the Sazerac at the beautiful Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel,” said Kimerly Patton-Bragg. We agree.
Ramos Gin Fizz at Bar Tonique
Tonique is a longtime standard bearer among New Orleans’ younger cocktail bars. “They’re the happiest bar to make it by hand and they do it with pride,” said Nick Jarrett.
Sazerac at Sazerac Bar
The joint is called the Sazerac Bar, you know. So order one.
Sazerac at Napoleon House
You may notice that there are a lot of Sazeracs on this list. Welcome to New Orleans! This, along with the Pimm’s Cup, was one of the original drinks the Impastato family pushed to assure its patrons wouldn’t get too tipsy. Not too sure about the thinking behind that idea.
Separator at Good Friends Bar
What does this boozy milkshake separate you from? Your senses? Your cares? Your wallet? The friends you came out with? All of the above, perhaps.
Shark Attack at Tropical Isle
As if the Hand Grenade weren’t enough, Bourbon Street’s Tropical Isle also has the Shark Attack. You can’t order this drink quietly. The bartenders sound the bells and blow their whistles. The only drink in New Orleans to come with a toy shark in it. The “blood” in the drink is grenadine.
Thrown Cocktails at Manolito
When Manolito opened back in 2018, it brought to the city the longtime Cuban bartending art of the thrown cocktail—that is, not stirring or shaking the drink, but pouring it back and forth between two vessels. It was the bartending tradition we didn’t know we missed. Some people prefer the El Presidente. I go for the Martini.
Twenty-five Cent Martinis at Antoine’s and Commander’s Palace
We don’t know how these two bastions of New Orleans dining manage to sell Martinis for only 25 cents at lunch. We just hope they don’t stop.
Vieux Carre at Carousel Bar
This strong-spirited New Orleans rye classic has been served at this rotating hotel bar since 1938, when it was invented by bartender Walter Bergeron. The drink was neglected by history for a while in the late 20th century, but the mixologists of the cocktail revival made sure we all remembered again. Now, we’ll never forget about it.
Zombie at Latitude 29
You can thank bar owner and tiki guru Jeff Berry that we are now drinking the true 1934 formula for this Don the Beachcomber classic, and not the spurious slop that was sold under the name Zombie for much of the 20th century. His dogged research uncovered the original recipe. Now, he sells the genuine article himself.
Odds and Ends…
The 20th anniversary edition of Tales of the Cocktail begins today! See you around town… At Palm & Pine, the cocktail menu features a drink called GIRLS JUST WANT TO HAVE FUNDAMENTAL RIGHTS. When you buy one, 5O% of the proceeds will be donated to The New Orleans Abortion Fund… On July 25 at 5 pm, Jewel of the South will host the bar team from Paravoz Speakeasy in war-torn Kyiv. The event is to raise money for the team. Drinks are pay-what-you-can.… Bartenders Ivy Mix, Jim Meehan, Haley Traub, Lauren O’Brian, J’Nai Williams and T. Cole Newton will be slinging drinks on July 25, from 2 to 4 pm, at the Powdered Sugar Room in the Hyatt Regency in New Orleans. The event launches a national initiative to raise funds for women seeking abortion access in Louisiana.
While I can check several of these off, I clearly have some catching up to do. Thank you for the to-do list.
One drink I would really like to see restored to the New Orleans brunch drink pantheon is the Absinthe Suissesse. There was a time one could get a lovely version at Commander’s, but that was twenty years ago. It really belongs alongside the Ramos and Milk Punch.
Great list! Gonna try them all!