On May 30, Masahiro Urushido, the infinitely hospitable owner of Katana Kitten in New York, manned a one-man, one-night-only pop-up inside the Rome speakeasy Jerry Thomas Project. After trying two drinks on the four-drink menu, we were ready to call it a night. (There had been other stops before then.) But Masa entreated us to trying the Buono, an Itali…
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