"Jack Pandl's" in Whitefish bay has a strawberry Schaum Torte on their menu. That is probably the place your friend was referring to. Haven't been there in years. The last time was about 15 years ago. My then 60 year-old dining companion greeted our server with a familiarity that echoed the cordiality borne of long acquaintance. I asked him over our fish-fry how long he had known her. "Since I was ten. I came here regularly with my family as a kid." Up to that point I thought the atmosphere was a bit stodgy. But his remark made me realise that the place should be a bit stodgy. It was (and I presume still is) a museum.
In Indiana, my mother (of German heritage) made a full-sized version of this called Forgotten Torte, so called because the giant meringue spent overnight ignored and cooling in the oven. It was topped with macerated strawberries and whipped cream, but never ice cream.
I'd love to send you the recipe! Not sure how to post a pdf here.
The recipe has a longer backstory (which I was reminded of when I found it in my files). It came from my maternal great aunt, Agnes Reasor Olmstead, who was a Home Economist and Director of Public Affairs for the Colonial Stores in Atlanta in the 1950s, and who wrote and created hundreds of recipes for the stores under the pen name "Nancy Carter". I have a treasure trove of her printed materials for the store and all of her home recipe files (there's a project for "someday"). The recipe included branded ingredients from the stores and was likely originally published in one of her pamphlets. My mother made it for "fancy" dinner parties. Agnes grew up on a farm in Indiana and her grandparents (my great-great parents) emigrated from Germany. I'm guessing she had some version of it in the Midwest and then adopted the recipe for her Southern constituents at the Colonial Stores.
I don’t recall ever having Schaum Torte, nor even seeing it on a menu, despite dining at Nite Cap Inn as a kid. The peach one sounds the most tasty, imo. If you’re ever looking to dine at a very interesting supper club in WI where the relish trays remain free, you need to give Schwarz’s Supper Club in St. Anna (near Elkhart Lake) a try. You won’t find Schaum Torte as they don’t have anything other than a scoop of ice cream for dessert, but it’s an experience. Perhaps you have already been there. https://schwarzsupperclub.com/menu/
You are Brew-town's finest food writer...and you don't even live here! Thank you for this delightful essay. Please move back here and rescue the local citizens from (in extreme cases) death by indigestion brought on by a surfeit of blurbs.
Finally got a chance to read this and now I really want a Schaum Torte. My first thought on reading your description was that it sounded like a Midwestern version of a pavlova, which is another dessert that you don't see nearly enough. IIRC, the fruit topping on pavlovas is usually various types of berries and some tropical fruits (I'm remembering passion fruit...?), not exclusively strawberries. Fun read and hope to try to a Schaum Torte sometime!
I love Schaum Torte! One of the partners at work just alerted me to a German restaurant in Whitefish Bay that has Schaum Torte! We’re going!
And it's old! How is it possible this place escaped my attention?
That’s the fun of these “In Search Of” articles - there is always more to learn. I would hate for it to be “over” 👏👏👏
"Jack Pandl's" in Whitefish bay has a strawberry Schaum Torte on their menu. That is probably the place your friend was referring to. Haven't been there in years. The last time was about 15 years ago. My then 60 year-old dining companion greeted our server with a familiarity that echoed the cordiality borne of long acquaintance. I asked him over our fish-fry how long he had known her. "Since I was ten. I came here regularly with my family as a kid." Up to that point I thought the atmosphere was a bit stodgy. But his remark made me realise that the place should be a bit stodgy. It was (and I presume still is) a museum.
Yes it is! We are going on our next visit in October! Thank you for this!
Enjoy!
Mary Kate’s stylized torte looks to be the best of them all! 👏 👏
You’re nice! Aunt Sandy’s was the best!
In Indiana, my mother (of German heritage) made a full-sized version of this called Forgotten Torte, so called because the giant meringue spent overnight ignored and cooling in the oven. It was topped with macerated strawberries and whipped cream, but never ice cream.
We have recipes to that effect.
Yes! That recipe scared me! Leaving it over night AND making a full size cake - wow, I feared it would have been a disaster. Maybe next time.
I’d love it if you wanted to share your mom’s recipe!
I'd love to send you the recipe! Not sure how to post a pdf here.
The recipe has a longer backstory (which I was reminded of when I found it in my files). It came from my maternal great aunt, Agnes Reasor Olmstead, who was a Home Economist and Director of Public Affairs for the Colonial Stores in Atlanta in the 1950s, and who wrote and created hundreds of recipes for the stores under the pen name "Nancy Carter". I have a treasure trove of her printed materials for the store and all of her home recipe files (there's a project for "someday"). The recipe included branded ingredients from the stores and was likely originally published in one of her pamphlets. My mother made it for "fancy" dinner parties. Agnes grew up on a farm in Indiana and her grandparents (my great-great parents) emigrated from Germany. I'm guessing she had some version of it in the Midwest and then adopted the recipe for her Southern constituents at the Colonial Stores.
I love this. If you like, please send it to marykatemurray@me.com - I’d like to figure out a way to share some of these great recipes!!
I don’t recall ever having Schaum Torte, nor even seeing it on a menu, despite dining at Nite Cap Inn as a kid. The peach one sounds the most tasty, imo. If you’re ever looking to dine at a very interesting supper club in WI where the relish trays remain free, you need to give Schwarz’s Supper Club in St. Anna (near Elkhart Lake) a try. You won’t find Schaum Torte as they don’t have anything other than a scoop of ice cream for dessert, but it’s an experience. Perhaps you have already been there. https://schwarzsupperclub.com/menu/
I'll have to try that place. I know they have Schaum Torte at the Del-Bar Supper Club in Wisconsin Dells.
Really enjoyed reading this Schaumtorte adventure! I'm German (born and raised) and never even heard of it, funny enough!
They are delicious and fun to make! 😁
You are Brew-town's finest food writer...and you don't even live here! Thank you for this delightful essay. Please move back here and rescue the local citizens from (in extreme cases) death by indigestion brought on by a surfeit of blurbs.
I'm there at least once a month lately! Almost as if I live there.
Finally got a chance to read this and now I really want a Schaum Torte. My first thought on reading your description was that it sounded like a Midwestern version of a pavlova, which is another dessert that you don't see nearly enough. IIRC, the fruit topping on pavlovas is usually various types of berries and some tropical fruits (I'm remembering passion fruit...?), not exclusively strawberries. Fun read and hope to try to a Schaum Torte sometime!