43 Comments
author

-- I have a confession to make!! I am a middle slice person!

Expand full comment
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

As a former native East Coaster and former resident of NYC and LA, I moved to Chicago in 2015. Soon after my husband and I ordered a thin crust pizza from a local pizzeria and we were shocked and horrified when it arrived cut into small squares. It was our first encounter with "tavern-style" or thin crust Chicago pizza. It was delicious, but we've never gotten used to eating small squares. Admittedly, those corner pieces are luscious, but to this day if we order thin crust pizza we specify that it be cut into wedges! I can, however, agree that THE meat that belongs on top of a good pizza is sausage, not pepperoni.

Expand full comment
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

You missed my two go-to tavern pizza joints! Eddie’s on Long Island - New Hyde Park, to be exact - calls them bar pies (pronounced “baw pois “). Theirs were the first I ever encountered and as a non-Wisconsinian I think they’re terrific. The other is Stout, a wait-for-your-train type place a block from Grand Central. Not as good as Eddie’s but they scratch the itch, and my daughter requests them regularly (plain, alas). My fee for this information is an invite when you go to both. I call dibs on at least one middle slice.

Expand full comment
founding
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Quite the coincidence that you and Kenji Lopez-Alt would have simultaneous pieces on tavern-style pizza!

Expand full comment
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Carminuccio’s in Newtown, CT makes an exceptional thin crust pizza. They don’t do the party cut, nor was it ever a tavern, but I still miss their pizza. Crust as crisp as a cracker.

Expand full comment
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

When I lived in Atlanta a few years ago, the company I worked for would get us pizza every Friday from a place called Nancy's and it was always cut into tavern style squares. I remember it being good but didn't really think too much of it at the time. It was always just there and in very large quantities. I have no idea how they ended up being to go-to place for our office. Maybe because the tavern cut was good for large groups of people? The non-corner slices were very messy for people sitting at keyboards.

Just did some clicking around and found that they are apparently a chain with a bunch of locations in the Midwest and the South. Maybe there's still hope for the tavern cut staging a takeover as America's preferred pizza cut??

Expand full comment
founding
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

There’s a wonderful retro spot in Chicago Edgewater neighborhood called Gino’s North used to be a fancy cocktail lounge back in the day by the name of Snow Drop Cocktail Lounge. “Chicago’s Most Exquisite Cocktail Lounge” as it was known.

They’ve been doing tavern cut since the 90s by the well known neighborhood Peggy Pizza, who passed away in 2021.

Did you happen to visit back in your Chicago days?

https://www.dnainfo.com/chicago/20140825/edgewater/ginos-norths-peggy-still-slinging-pizzas-at-85-party-planned-for-sunday.amp/

Expand full comment
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Excellent article. Next time I’m in New York, I’ll look at hitting up a few of these spots - maybe grab a pie or two together!

Expand full comment
founding
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Corner pieces forever!!!

Expand full comment
founding
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

I hate to ask (and feel free to ban me from making any more comments), but isn't Domino's Thin Crust pizza Tavern Style. It's been years since I've had it, but I do remember that they did slice it with a party cut.

Expand full comment
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

I love to see meatballs on pizza, but I've only had it back home in Jersey and at Grimaldi's in various states.

I remember my dad telling me about pizza in Vietnam with hot dogs as a topping. Have you ever encountered that topping?

Johnny's Pizza House has 45 locations, most of which are in Louisiana. They sell fairly thin crust pizza with the party cut.

Expand full comment
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Oh no!! I grew up near Star Tavern and having been going there for over 40 years. . On the rare occasions I feel the urge to go out to New Jersey and reunite with my high school friends it’s always at star. however, I have not been since 2019 and I did not know about the renovation. That’s heartbreaking. It was completely unchanged since the 70s and so comforting prior to that.

Expand full comment
Mar 22, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson

Federici’s, in Freehold NJ makes an exemplary bar pie. Its a mandatory stop whenever I am lucky enough to be giving a Bruce Springsteen tour to Bruce tourists (about 1x year) as its in Bruce’s hometown, has some signed photos of him and the E Street band on the wall, and is an excellent lunch break.

I also thought that one of the crucial rules about bar/tavern pies is the fact that since there is less dough in the pies, theres more room for beer, which makes more money for the owner!

Expand full comment
Mar 21, 2023Liked by Robert Simonson, Mary Kate Murray

Your write up is interesting because I’ve seen people slice it into squares and, I wondered what led to such an appalling dismemberment of a near-perfect food. NY style pizza is THE American pizza and it has to be sliced in the traditional way and picked up and eaten (folded lengthwise if needed). Spicy red pepper flakes can be added. Freshly grated parmesan too. Sorry, but it should be a felony to serve it any other way. It’s not that I feel strongly about it personally. It’s just part of the natural order of things and should not be disturbed. 😉🙂

Expand full comment
May 2Liked by Robert Simonson

Kinchley's is my fav. I also like Mountain House in Sparkill, NY. A new spot is Beekman's Ale House in Sleepy Hollow, NY (near Tarrytown)

Expand full comment
Jan 28Liked by Robert Simonson

Thanks so much for this wonderful article.

Growing up in central New Jersey in the ‘80s, Vic’s in Bradley Beach, established in 1947, was (and is, and will forever be) the standard by which all pizza is measured, as far as my family is concerned. Ask others in town, however, and it was Pete and Elda’s in nearby Neptune, which has a cracker-like crust.

It was a unique treat, different from the other (and also fantastic) New York style thin crust pizza, of which there are so many excellent “by the slice” examples throughout New York and New Jersey and which of course to those of us that grew up in that part of the world, is a lasting symbol of all that is right and true in the world. I love New York style pizza, but perhaps slightly less than I love the pizza (and the nostalgic, dimly-lit, wood-paneled, phone-boothed ambience) at Vic’s.

In the early 2010s, I was introduced to Federici’s, in Freehold, NJ, which I will happily admit rivals Vic’s both in flavor and in warm, throwback neighborhood feel. You will find both restaurants filled with local families that have been customers for generations.

I did not hear the term “bar pie” until perhaps 5 years ago, from Dave Portnoy on his One Bite pizza reviews, which provoked some reading on my part about the term, and the pizza style’s history around Boston’s South Shore.

I highly recommend hitting up Vic’s and Federici’s the next time you are “down the Shore.” You will not see a party cut, however (not a fan, personally—I also associate it with Domino’s thin crust, which is cut that way and is not great). I also would very much like a comprehensive Best Bar Pie & Tavern Pizza list! Happy to help compile. Thanks again.

Expand full comment