Long before malls, there were public markets. And unlike malls, which are often a collection of outlets for national chains, by visiting a public market you can take a city’s culinary temperature, as they typically feature only local merchants. Whatever the city has to offer in terms of butchers, grocers, fish mongers, chocolatiers, bakers and dairy products is on display. And whatever the city specializes in, food- and drink-wise—things you can not get anywhere else—is proudly on offer. And it’s all under one old roof, usually topping a grand old building.
I’d known of public markets from growing up in Wisconsin, where Milwaukee has a small but charming example filled with bratwurst and cheese; from the now-lost New York institutions the Fulton Street Fish Market and the Essex Street Market; and from trips to San Francisco’s Ferry Building Marketplace, which is a luxury version of the genre. But nothing prepared me for the old-world charm and rich local flavor I encountered in Seattle, Lancaster and Cleveland during recent travels.
Public markets are as old as America. There was one in every major city, a place where local farmers and shopkeepers could sell their wares and where the public could enjoy an early version of one-stop shopping. They were typically located in the center of town and, if there was a body of water nearby, as near to that as possible. Most began as open-air affairs, but eventually they were housed in large, unifying buildings. Over time, with the rise of supermarkets and the decline of urban downtowns, many faded in importance or were dismantled. But, luckily, a handful have survived; and, in recent decades, as consumers began to focus on the local and artisanal, some have thrived. And their success has inspired other cities to create their own.
Here are a few visual and mental impressions I took away with me from what are surely three of the most wonderful public markets in the nation. As for the food I took away with me—and there was a lot—sorry; it’s all eaten.
West Side Market, Cleveland
We hit Cleveland for a day during a road trip back in 2021, but were unlucky enough to be there on a Tuesday, when the West Side Market was closed. We settled for breakfast at the West Side Market Cafe, and, let me tell ya, that is a pretty damn good consolation prize. They do a tip top job on a wide array of comfort food. I had The Hot Mess, because I’ll order anything with “mess” or “garbage” or “trash” in the title. The dish was composed of homefries on toast, topped with scrambled eggs, cheddar, bacon, and smothered in sausage gravy.