The New Orleans Bar 40
The Most Iconic Watering Holes in America's Greatest Bar City.
Even though I live in New York and think the Gotham bar scene second to none, I might be brought to admit, on a good day when I’m feeling generous, that New Orleans probably has the best bar culture in the United States. It’s not so much about quantity or quality—though New Orleans has both of those—but variety. The city excels at every sort of bar.
With nearly 20 years under my belt of visiting New Orleans between one and three times a year, I have a pretty good handle on the city’s bar scene and its most singular operators. So, as a sequel to the summer 2022 post in which The Mix listed New Orleans’ most iconic drinks, this year we are tallying the city’s greatest bars.
The businesses listed below (in alphabetical order) are limited to cocktail bars, wine bars, hotel bars, dive bars and neighborhood bars. I have purposely omitted restaurant bars. New Orleans has many restaurants that have top-notch bars attached to them, including those at Compere Lapin, Broussard’s, Clancy’s, Sylvain, Cochon, and Brennan’s. But, as good as those programs are, they are secondary to the kitchen, and the food coming out of the kitchen is the primary reason people visit these places.
To aid us in our research, we called on a collection of New Orleans bar industry stalwarts, city residents and long time Big Easy enthusiasts, including: local liquor journalist and author Jenny Adams; Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, owner of Latitude 29 and one of the great tiki drink authorities in the world; Neal Bodenheimer, a longtime cocktail bar-owning eminence (Cure, Peychaud’s, etc.); John Deragon, who for many years co-ran the CAP apprentice program at Tales of the Cocktail; Nick Detrich, a one-time New Orleans bartender and bar owner; Martin Doudoroff, a developer of cocktail apps and frequent New Orleans visitor; Kirk Estopinal, a partner at Cure and Cane & Table; Abigail Gullo, a celebrated longtime New Orleans bartender who currently presides over the Loa Bar; Chris Hannah, a NOLA bartending institution and owner of Jewel of the South; Pableaux Johnson, a photographer, local writer and bon vivant; local food writer and author Brett Martin; Ti Martin, a member of the restaurant-owning Brennan family and owner of Commander’s Palace; T. Cole Newton, owner of the bar Twelve Mile Limit; and Kimberly Patton-Bragg, another New Orleans bartending legend. (Detrich, Deragon, Doudoroff and Bodenheimer are Bar Regulars at The Mix.)
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The New Orleans Bar 40
The most famous wine shop/bar in a city whose citizens have a reputation for drinking cocktails. Its fans love it to the point of irrationality. I don’t blame them. Its backyard scene, with live music every day, may be the best in the city.
“You’re friendly neighborhood cocktail bar,” goes their apt slogan. A charmingly scruffy craft-cocktail joint directly off the less charmingly scruffy Rampart Street. And perhaps the most laid-back cocktail bar in town. Order the Ramos Gin Fizz if you have a half hour to kill.
A bar big enough to hold all the hundreds of different kinds of whiskey it sells. You can get your steps in walking from one end of the bar to the other. There’s also beer, frozen Margs and a house Old-Fashioned made with bonded Old Grand-Dad. You get the idea.
A corner Bywater dive with live music and pool. You’ve heard of the Creole/Cajun cooking trinity of onions, Bell peppers and celery? Well, according to Gullo: “BJ's in the Bywater is neighborhood/dive/music holy trinity that makes New Orleans bars unique.”
Black Duck Bar at the Palace Cafe
A bar for the rum serious, situated on the second floor about the Palace Cafe on Canal Street. The clean, well-lighted space is the actual headquarters for the New Orleans Rum Society. Berry: “A true rum-lover's rum bar by Dickie Brennan, with an exhaustive collection and a very hospitable staff.”
A dark nook on the edges of the French Quarter with a lived-in, borderline-spooky feel—imagine a more roughhewn Napoleon House—and an extensive beer list. Patton-Bragg: “A true service industry and neighborhood haunt that I truly love, despite their obsession with Malört.”
This handsome bar and restaurant is part of the Cure universe of drinking dens, and achieves what is perhaps the city’s best balance of old-world atmosphere, new world energy, food and cocktails. Come for the rum rhapsodies, stay for the rum cake.
A bare-bones neighborhood dive in Tremé known for its live brass bands.
Round and round the Vieux Carre goes, and where it stops—well, it stops in front of your bar stool, of course. That is, if you’re lucky enough to nab one of the seats at New Orleans ever-popular, slowly turning cocktail party (one spin every 15 minutes), located just inside the Hotel Monteleone.
Not the oldest hotel bar in New Orleans, or the most famous, but the swankiest, with a 24K twinkle befitting its high-end perch inside the Four Seasons Hotel. Good cocktails, too. Patton-Bragg: “If you want a true pinky’s up experience, The Chandelier Bar in the Four Seasons is the move.”
One of those French Quarter corner dive bars that tourists who don’t know better pass by. But locals know better. Good jukebox, cheap cold Miller High Life and lots of character/characters. Bring cash. Deragon: “A good mix of locals and Tales people in the know. Usually pretty empty even on the busiest of Tales Cocktail nights. Always great ice-cold draft beer or Campari soda.”
A historic 1883, former private residence, now a stately hotel with a dark, wood-paneled bar. You can cosplay a 19th-century New Orleans lifestyle here. Adams: “You really go for the atmosphere, whether it's sitting at the huge mahogany bar beneath 15-foot ceiling filled with chandeliers, or, you choose to drink outside, in the tropical-plant-filled porches and little garden nooks. The streetcar rolls directly in front of the hotel, beneath a 200-year-old massive live oak.”
The city’s preeminent modern craft cocktail bar, now and forever, founded by Neal Bodenheimer in 2009 and still going strong. Patton-Bragg: “I thought Neal had lost his mind when I saw the space before renovations started. Boy, was I wrong. The entire Freret thoroughfare is completely revitalized because of his anchor and they are still killing it.”
In a city of gorgeous bar spaces, this golden-hued, vaguely Gaudi-esque hotel bar inside the Hotel Peter & Paul—part of a former 19th-century church—can give them all a run for their money in drop-deadness. Gullo: “I think it’s so pretty. And if there is not a seat at the bar, the cozy tables in the front room are a great place to have a rendezvous.”
Did someone say Frozen Irish Coffee? An Irish pub dive with a difference and layers of baked-in character. Everyone seems to be coming from or on their way to another party. That is, unless they decide they like the party at Erin Rose better. There are tasty po’ boys in the back.
A newish addition to the city’s drinking scene, but a welcome one, given that it finally provided touristy Jackson Square with a much-needed civilized cocktail oasis. Berry: “Expensive but worth it.”
A handsome, hidden corridor of dimly-lit sophistication that singlehandedly transformed its namesake cocktail into a New Orleans staple. Dietrich: “Of all the cocktail bars within the old Grande Dames of New Orleans restaurants, Arnaud's French 75 Bar is finest in regards to its hospitality, history, and environs.“
New Orleans has a long history of fostering bars that manifest the quirky personality of their owner—in this case, former Cure bartender Nick Jarrett. Brett Martin: “A totally idiosyncratic expression of his own brain: a mix of heavy metal, B-horror, super-smart cocktails, odd eau-de-vies, a killer jukebox, micheladas, and live entertainment out of a David Lynch movie. I love it.”
Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
Ignore the tourists and enjoy your Purple Drank.
Arguably the most praised and honored cocktail bar in New Orleans at this moment. And why not, what with local drink-slinging legend Chris Hannah commanding the bar. Johnson: “A bit fancier, a little more buttoned-down, but man, does Hannah and his crew put on a fine, fine show on a small stage.” Martin: “I am nuts for Jewel of the South. And have been since before the world started to catch on that it is so so charming in the banana tree filled brick courtyard and the charming cozy warm interior.”
Kermit's Tremé Mother-in-Law Lounge
New Orleans musical treasure Kermit Ruffin reopened this bar in 2014 and it has been his home ever since. That’s reason enough to visit. You can’t miss the place, which is covered in colorful murals. There’s live music every night. And Kermit, the consummate host, provides free red beans and rice.
A picturesque, artsy cocktail bar inside the International House Hotel with a top-flight cocktail program shepherded by bartender Abigail Gullo, who, for many people, is the main draw. Berry: “Why? Abigail Gullo, that's why. Make sure she's on duty before you go.”
If the tiki-bar demimonde had a central office, this would be it. The husband-and-wife team of Jeff Berry and Annene Kaye keep the hospitality levels high. Patton-Bragg: “Notwithstanding my obvious bias since I work there, but, it is one of the top Tiki Bars in the world and the Bum is rightfully credited as pulling the switch to revive (or reanimate) the Tiki world.” Good food, too!
A hole in the wall with a personality as big as Cuba. Every Cuban and Caribbean classic you could hope for is served here, each in a masterful way. Thrown cocktails, but no throwaways. Patton-Bragg: “One of my favorite martinis anywhere.”
A longstanding Bywater corner bar with a strong beer list, lots of screens if you like sports and a shuffle board table if you want to play something yourself. Adams: “The bartenders know everyone, and it's a real hangout spot that's beloved in the city.”
What’s not to like about the Dean of New Orleans bars, where time stands still, classical music soothes the soul, Pimm’s Cups slake the thirst and every shopworn detail of the ancient decor seems perfect? Berry: “What to drink here is beside the point; it's all about the unbeatable atmosphere.”
Only New Orleans would have a bar called The Old Absinthe House, because no other city loved absinthe as much as New Orleans did a century ago, and no other city possesses the living bibulous history New Orleans does. The building has a history as complicated as any in the world, with many different chapters. Today, no one seated in the square, street-facing bar really cares about absinthe; the patrons mainly drink beer. But the original absinthe drips still stand guard in the posh bar in back, keeping the green flame burning.
A Mid-City neighborhood joint, painted blue and gold, with a diverse crowd, foosball in the back and rotating food pop-up options. Newton: “I have a real soft spot for Pal’s. They're a neighborhood institution on the other side of Mid-City, near Bayou Saint John and the Fairgrounds.”
Who doesn’t like dueling pianos, or brightly lit fountains, or neon-red, sugar-bomb Hurricanes? Not tourists, that’s for sure, who swarm over this French Quarter honeytrap every night. But loosen up and you just might just have a good time in spite of yourself.
A well-hid neighborhood bar established in 1931, also know at Pete’s Out in the Cold, in what is now an almost entirely residential neighborhood. Newton: “Pete’s in the Irish Channel is a gem.”
A sophisticated nook from the Cure team, dedicated to New Orleans’ many classic cocktails, with a snug, dark inside bar and a beautific outdoor garden. You may be transported enough by the atmosphere to forget you are just yards from Bourbon Street.
Dietrich: “this is the best neighborhood bar the area has to offer. It's divey to be sure, but it is most hospitable in all the ways a proper bar should be with crawfish boils, epic gatherings for Sunday Saints games, a barber chair with pop up barbers, and two popular pool tables.” Patton-Bragg: “You can even get a haircut for the exorbitant price of a shot and a beer on Mondays. Can’t lie - haircut was pretty good.” Drink and a haircut, two bits!
You wouldn’t travel this far out of the way for just any drinks made by just any bartender. But the garrulous armchair cocktail historian Chris McMillian isn’t just any bartender and he makes some of the best classic cocktails in town.
One of the universe’s great dive bar. The late, great traveling musician/mixologist Brother Cleve used to have the staff collect his phone messages. Memorable things tend to happen there. Gullo: “I once had so much fun there with friends, the next day we went to all get matching Saturn Bar tattoos.”
Sweeping New Orleans hotel bar elegance at its most romantic. Don’t leave without a round of the eponymous house cocktail and another of Ramos Gin Fizzes. Doudoroff: “If I can hit the Sazerac Bar when it isn’t overrun, I still love to get a drink there—that old bar still feels special to me—’going to church,’ so to speak.”
A slick little watering hole known for Martinis and oysters and offhand sophistication, the creation of a couple of New Orleans-born brothers, who, in their parallel NYC lives, like to open bars on boats.
Snake and Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge
As Patton-Bragg puts up: “No WAY this could exist anywhere but New Orleans. It’s not a place you ‘go to.’ It’s a place where you ‘end up.’ If you remember.” True enough. That it opens at 7 p.m. and always feels like midnight inside should give you an idea of what owner Dave Clements is after. Have a cold Schlitz or try a Possum Drop, a drink named after a possum that, years ago, dropped out of the ceiling. Twice.
Home of two of the most gimmicky stunt drinks ever dreamed up: the Hand Grenade and the Shark Attack. Each comes with a piece of plastic crap that you get to keep. Hey, if you’re going in for the Bourbon Street experience, you may as well go all the way.
An out-of-the way Mid-City place that doubles as both a neighborhood haunt (pool table, jukebox, etc.) and cocktail destination (owner T. Cole Newton has cocktail cred), with very kind daily drink specials.
This corner shack in the Marigny always looks like it’s about to collapse. Thank God it never has. Formerly the musical home of local legend Kermit Ruffin, the low-ceilinged haunt still has live music tucked in the corner, cheap cold drinks, a chill vibe and lots of New Orleans character.
Did we miss something? Is there a bar not on this list that you feel should be on it? We’ve love to hear from you! Leave a comment below.
Odds and Ends…
I will be at the Tales of the Cocktail cocktail convention in New Orleans reading from my book A Proper Drink at Salon St~Germain, a recreation of the famous Shakespeare & Company bookstore in Paris that will materialize at the book store Baldwin & Co. in New Orleans on Tuesday from 5-7 p.m. The Washington, D.C. bar Allegory will provide drinks… I will be signing copies of my book The Encyclopedia of Cocktails at the TOTC Bookstore & Bitters Market inside the Ritz-Carlton hotel on Wednesday, July 24, at 11:30 am… Other authors scheduled to sign books at the Market include Frank Caiafa and T. Cole Newton (Tuesday at 2:30 p.m., and Frank again on Wednesday at 1:30 p.m.); Nicola Nice and Colin Asare-Appiah (Tuesday at 2:30 p.m.); Michael Anstendig and Jim Meehan (Tuesday at 3:30 p.m.); Aaron Goldfarb (Wednesday at 1:30 p.m.); and Carrie Smith and Matt Pietrek (Wednesday at 1:30 p.m. and Thursday at 3:30 p.m).… New Orleans-based writers Brett Martin and Wayne Curtis have launched a new writing education venture called Taste & Place, described as “both a writing workshop and an experiential retreat for writers of all levels who wish to explore the new possibilities of contemporary food and travel writing.” Class size is limited to 16 participants. The workshop takes place Oct. 5-10. To register, click here… All of the following Tales of the Cocktail events will take place at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in New Orleans unless otherwise indicated. The Haus Alpenz tasting room will be open from 11:30-1:30 p.m. on Monday, July 22… Meaghan Dorman, owner of Raines Law Room and Dear Irving, will be part of the panel “Bar Management and Staffing: Recruit and Retain Your Best Local Talent” on July 22 at 1:30 p.m.… Dale DeGroff will be part of the “The Way of the Bartender Seminar” seminar on July 22 at 2:30 p.m.… Charles Joly will take part in the seminar “Smoke and Mirrors: Cocktail Theatre and Creating Memorable Experiences” on Wednesday, July 24, at 11:30 a.m.… Julie Reiner will be featured on the “Making Space for Everyone: A Guide to a More Inclusive Community” seminar on July 24 at 1:30 p.m.… Derek Brown will lead the seminar "State of No- & Low-Alcohol" Workshop & Meet-up” on July 24 at 3 p.m.… The seminar, “Vermouth: The Catalyst for the American Cocktail Seminar Presented by Mediterranean Aperitivo,” on July 24 at 2:15 p.m., will feature Philip Duff and Simon Difford… Misty Kalkofen will take part in “Blind Blanco: Unlocking the Essence of Tequila,” a seminar on July 24, at 1 p.m… Dead Rabbit is opening a new branch of its chain in Boston in 2025… Bartender Brian Miller (Pegu Club, Death & Co., The Polynesian) has assumed control of the bar program at the Stockton Inn, the 300-year-old New Jersey institution. The beverage program will be up and running by September… Trick Dog in San Francisco has launched its latest menu. This one looks like a Playbill (where this reporter used to work for 18 years) and is based on the fictitious musical Dogs. Sample drink names: Understudy, Line Please and Entracte.
The Updated Bar Regular Virtual Wall of Plaques
Great thanks, as always, to the generous members of The Mix’s Bar Regular family, who do so much to support this newsletter. Below is the updated wall of virtual brass plaques—103 names and counting! If you are a Bar Regular (that is, a Founding Member paid subscriber) and don’t see your name on the wall, please contact us and we will rectify the situation. If you would like the be on the wall, please click on the link before and select the Bar Regular subscription option!
I hope to see some of you in New Orleans next week! Cheers!
We have our work cut out for us next week, but we are up to the challenge, I’m sure! 🍺🍷🍸🍹🥂🥃
A Mix Reader just texted me and said “Hey
Why isnt IGOR’S on your list!?
Just kidding. But you can do your laundry there
And isn’t there a bar at the 1/2 way point inside a grocery store?”
Looked for the grocery one and couldn’t find it but did come up with The Franklin, which is in an old grocery, but mainly suggesting this because it’s 3 blocks from our hotel and has a $6 happy hour Martini!!! Has anyone been there?